Mangalore, also known as Gateway to Karnataka is a city which gives you cuisine of distinct flavour. Talking about Mangalorean Cuisine, it is a name given to the collection of multiple cuisines of different community and regions. Want to know more about each cuisine? Read here>>
A city situated at the western end of India, Mangalore have a particular place in Indian Food. Where on one side, coastal food of Mangalore is very popular, on the other side, Udupi cuisine is famous all over the world.
The naming of this city had been done on the basis of Mangla Devi Mandir situated in Mangalore. In Puranas of Hindustan also, there is mention of this city. Mangalore is part of Karnataka and we can read about Karnataka in many scriptures or mythological books (ved or Puranas) like Mahabharat. According to Mahabharat, Sahadev was selected as ruler/governor of Karnataka. According to some other mythological book, the region around Kerala and Mangalore is famous by the name “Parashuram Chetra” as Parashuram bring this place out of the sea by attacking the sea with his poleaxe ( Parashu) for establishing/settling Bhramins.
Mangalore is one of the historic seaports of India, whose mention can be heard in Greek and Roman time too. Famous Traveller Ibn batuta had also written about Mangalore and he also mentioned about the visit of Persian and Arabian businessmen.
Effect of Islam and Islamic Culture could be seen in Mangalore and nearby regions of Mangalore way before it was seen in the other parts of India. Here, one group of Beri Muslims living, which is proof that Muslims reached this region nearly around the 7th century and in peace, unlike those Muslims of North, who came to India as rulers, not as businessmen.
This word ‘Beri’ has its root in Indian word ‘Vyapari’ (Businessman) because Arabian and Muslim Sailors came to India with the purpose of doing business.
And the food of this community is mainly known because of their dish called “BERI BIRYANI”. This Beri Birani is way more different from the other biryanis of the nation. Beri peoples use one complete coconut for 1 kg of chicken/mutton and also uses lots of green chilies, approximately they use 40 chilies for 1 kg of chicken/mutton. For their biryani, they cooked rice and chicken/mutton separately and at last mixed them in layer format before starting the Dum process( Dum means cooking an item its own steam ). Use of coconut in Beri Birani shown the influence of coastal region as well as South Indian Culinary Style. And this green chili is the gift of Portuguese’s people, who had reached Koechin, Mangalore, and Goa in the 15th century.
Other than Beri Biryani, “AKKI ROTI” and “CHICKEN CURRY” is one of the regular dishes of the house of Beri Peoples. This Akki Roti is cooked up from rice (in powder form) only.
And along with these food items, an item prepared up from Jaggery (‘Gud’) and Coconut(‘Nariyal’), which is called “DALIAPPA” is also loved by Beri peoples. This Daliappa is about the size of dosa, is thin and reticular too.
There is the deep influence of different-different communities and their culinary traditions on the food of Mangalore. So, the next meal is of Bunt Community.
Bunt Community, historically people of this community is the people of the martial race who lived in Tuluk (nearby area of Mangalore), who today live as business persons and as restaurants in Mangalore.
The main cuisine of Bunt’s is non-vegetarian, it mainly includes fish and chicken and a very less amount of mutton. Fish is an integral part of their cuisine as they live near rivers. Famous dishes of Bunt Cuisine includes “MEEN KAJIPU”, a dish made up from fish and “PRAWNS SOUP”, a dish made up by using prawns.
The Common ingredient in both the dishes is coconut (which is used in excess amount). But one dish, which becomes their identity too, is a type of chapati cooked up by using rice wafers called by the name “KORRI ROTI”. Every Bunt’s function is incomplete without this Kori Roti and this Kori Roti is eaten along with Chicken Curry. This Kori Roti consists of coconut milk more and less water, this proportion makes this roti tastier and healthier. Along this Coconut Milk, Red chilli, Turmeric(“Haldi”), Cumin (“Jeera”), Coriander (“Dhaniya”), Fenugreek (“Methi”), Pepper (“Kali Mirch”), less amount of Garlic (“Adrak”) and lemon water also used in it.
In Tulu Language, Kori means Chicken and this roti is also been eaten with Chicken curry.
A similar type of dish Tagreem is cooked in Arabia and Persia, and then it not completely wrong to say that this dish had come along with Muslims in the 7th Century and today it becomes an integral part of Bunt Cuisine.
Other than Bunts, Mogaveera/Mogiyar is another community who are living in Mangalore. They are the child of this land only. Traditionally they are groups of fishermen who lived in nearby areas of Udupi and Mangalore. And the influence of living in coastal region can be easily witnessed in their delicacies. If we notice food of this community, it is quite similar to the food of any normal fisherman’s family.In which fisherman went for fishing in the early morning, who take cooked rice along with him and eat it with freshly caught fish in lunch and in case if he doesn't have any fresh fish then eat it along with dried fish. The family of this fisherman uses the remaining fish of the day after selling all good fishes in dinner.
Basically, Bunt’s Food is quite similar to food of Kohli’s of Mumbai, and if is there any difference, then it is of local spices available or used while cooking.
There is one thing about their delicacies, which is seen less in other cuisines of Mangalore that is the use of dried fish. Earlier, these peoples used to does fishing in the large amount and their respective housewives dry excess/remaining fishes in sunshine so that they can eat them during monsoon season. At that time, dried fish is the food of poor people. But today, it becomes an expensive thing and peoples found it very tasty too.
500 yrs ago from now, there wasn’t any mention of the use of dried fish for making any dish. This technique of eating fish had come along Portuguese and before the independence of India, 2 lakh tons of fish was been exported from India.
Mangalore had a deep relation with Christian religion too as it is that region of India where you witness the influence of Portuguese and Christian Religion for the first time.
Food of Mangalorean Catholics is quite similar to the Food of Portuguese of Goa to a maximum extent. But you could also see the effect of South India on the cooking style of Mangalorean Catholics. Also, cook's of Goa use Sirca for sour taste whereas cooks of Mangalore uses tamarind for the same purpose.
Use of one thing, which generally not seen in the traditional food of Mangalore is the use of Pork. Pork dishes usually attached to the food of Catholic’s. Mahabharat and in the book of 12th Century, Mānasollāsa, we can find the mention of using pork in Indian food too.
Mangalorean Catholics cook one special dish from pork that is “PORK INDAD”, which is quite similar to ‘Goan Vindaloo’, as sugar is added to this dish at the end. One more dish of Mangalore which is found in this region only, that is, “ROSACHI CURRY”. This dish is prepared by frying fish with Coconut, Onion, Ginger, and Cumin. Next special item of the cuisine of Mangalorean Catholic is their salad “CUCUMBER KARAM”. You will always find this salad near Mangalorean Thalli. This salad is prepared by using cucumber, chili, and mustard (‘sarso’).
And with all these dishes, these peoples eat red rice and because of its export in a heavy amount to Muscat, this rice is also called “MUSCATI RICE”. All these dishes were started preparing here after 17th Century when in large amount Catholic’s of Goa was shifted to Mangalore.
One story is attached to these Mangalorean Catholics which shows that how much these peoples value their food. In the year 1784, during the fight with Britishers, Tipu Sultan send many Mangalorean Catholics to prison as captive. One of such catholic was Balthazaar, who doesn’t like prison’s food. So, he himself started preparing a type of sauce (‘chutni’), which remaining prisoners and soldiers were also like to eat. And this sauce was also named after him as “BALTHAZAAR CHUTNI”.
If we move 50 miles towards north from Mangalore, we will find a small and a peaceful city, Udupi. This place is famous, for established ‘Udupi Krishna Mutt’ and for Udupi Cuisine. Udupi Mutt was established by Madhwacharyaa in the 13th Century. Later on, people of here gave birth to the Udupi Cuisine. This Udupi Cuisine is based on the Saatvik Theory of Ayurveda. Since this is the food of Mutt, therefore like other Krishna Mutts all over the India, food of here also is totally Vegetarian and completely Saatvik too. By Saatvik Food they mean they won’t consume any food which is Tamsik or vengeful. In simple language along with the prohibition of meat, they also prohibit to eat any vegetable which have seed inside it like Brinjal or lady Finger (as a seed is the symbolism of possibility of life according to Ayurveda theory) or which is red in color like Tomatoes. These Bhramins have that same Orthodox nature what you usually see in follower’s of Jain Religion too. Some peoples believed that starting of Udupi Cuisine had taken place as food which is offered to God Krishna(Bhog/Prasad) in this mutt. They believed that if they offer best dishes to their Lord Krishna, he won’t leave them and go somewhere else.
Main dishes of this cuisine are “RASAM”, “SAMBHAR”, “DOSA”, “KASHI HALWA” (prepared by using Pumpkin) and “GHASSI”(made up from Peas and Coconut). This Udupi Cuisine famous all over the nation because of few reasons and one of them it is very economical or “Value for Money” food. Also, Udupi Cuisine is very good from the digestive point of view too.
Traditionally Dosa is being eaten in its normal/simple form (what we call “SADA DOSA” too) and in place of Sambhar, “ALLO BHAJI” was served. As far as talking about the invention of “MASALA DOSA”, there is one story behind it and that is around 60-70 yrs ago from now, due to damage to the crop’s of Potato, there was a shortage of Potato. And because of this, the batter of Potato’s was then started being filled inside Dosa, so that it’s usage will be minimum. Thus, from here onwards Masala Dosa was started being cooked. Although, people of Mysore believed that Dosa is their invention, not Udupi’s.This assumption might be true also as according to Manasoullas of Someshwar, all that region of Udupi and Mysore comes under Karnataka at that time. Hence it is possible that Dosa was an invention of this region. Although you will find Udupi Dosa is way more different from Mysore Dosa, it is more fermented and simpler than Mysore Dosa.
You will be amazed to know that we can find mention of this dosa in Sangam Literature of 6th Century by the name of “Dosika” or “Dosai”.
Either this dosa is originated from Udupi or Mysore, after RajniKant, the second most famous thing of South India is Dosa.
Food of Mangalore is not the only heritage of the communities and religions, who live here but also is proof of the influence of fertile field and coastal region.
Along with delicious dishes made up from Coconut and fishes, you will find the best crop of “ARECA NUT”/”SUPAARI” of India here. This Supari was earlier famous as “Pugi Phal”.Since 1st Century, this Supari is being used in Religious Work as it is a complete(Saabut) fruit like coconut. Many few people know this thing that both the items, that is Pan (Betel Leaf) and Pugi Phal (Areca Nut ), both came to India from South East Asia, maybe by floating with the waves of Sea around the Eastern Ghats. But how and when did both of them reached to Southern Area, nobody knows about it precisely. Maybe because of favourable weather of South for plantation of this crop was the reason at that time.
In the Buddhist Literature of 400 B.C., we can find mention of eating Supari. But its crop reached India, way before this time from Indonesia.
At a different time in history, communities who came here and get settled gave a new face to the Food of Mangalore. And today, cuisine which is famous as Mangalorean Cuisine is a combination of Hindu, Muslim and Christian influence.
Thus, Mangalorean Cuisine is the name given to the collection of Beri Muslim’s Cuisine, Bunt Cuisine, Mogaveera’s Cuisine, Mangalorean Catholic’s Cuisine and Udupi Cuisine.
That’s all about Mangalorean Cuisine.
Hope you like this Food Trip to Mangalore.
A city situated at the western end of India, Mangalore have a particular place in Indian Food. Where on one side, coastal food of Mangalore is very popular, on the other side, Udupi cuisine is famous all over the world.
 |
| MANGLA DEVI TEMPLE |
The naming of this city had been done on the basis of Mangla Devi Mandir situated in Mangalore. In Puranas of Hindustan also, there is mention of this city. Mangalore is part of Karnataka and we can read about Karnataka in many scriptures or mythological books (ved or Puranas) like Mahabharat. According to Mahabharat, Sahadev was selected as ruler/governor of Karnataka. According to some other mythological book, the region around Kerala and Mangalore is famous by the name “Parashuram Chetra” as Parashuram bring this place out of the sea by attacking the sea with his poleaxe ( Parashu) for establishing/settling Bhramins.
Mangalore is one of the historic seaports of India, whose mention can be heard in Greek and Roman time too. Famous Traveller Ibn batuta had also written about Mangalore and he also mentioned about the visit of Persian and Arabian businessmen.
Effect of Islam and Islamic Culture could be seen in Mangalore and nearby regions of Mangalore way before it was seen in the other parts of India. Here, one group of Beri Muslims living, which is proof that Muslims reached this region nearly around the 7th century and in peace, unlike those Muslims of North, who came to India as rulers, not as businessmen.
This word ‘Beri’ has its root in Indian word ‘Vyapari’ (Businessman) because Arabian and Muslim Sailors came to India with the purpose of doing business.
 |
| BERI BIRYANI |
Other than Beri Biryani, “AKKI ROTI” and “CHICKEN CURRY” is one of the regular dishes of the house of Beri Peoples. This Akki Roti is cooked up from rice (in powder form) only.
And along with these food items, an item prepared up from Jaggery (‘Gud’) and Coconut(‘Nariyal’), which is called “DALIAPPA” is also loved by Beri peoples. This Daliappa is about the size of dosa, is thin and reticular too.
There is the deep influence of different-different communities and their culinary traditions on the food of Mangalore. So, the next meal is of Bunt Community.
Bunt Community, historically people of this community is the people of the martial race who lived in Tuluk (nearby area of Mangalore), who today live as business persons and as restaurants in Mangalore.
The main cuisine of Bunt’s is non-vegetarian, it mainly includes fish and chicken and a very less amount of mutton. Fish is an integral part of their cuisine as they live near rivers. Famous dishes of Bunt Cuisine includes “MEEN KAJIPU”, a dish made up from fish and “PRAWNS SOUP”, a dish made up by using prawns.
The Common ingredient in both the dishes is coconut (which is used in excess amount). But one dish, which becomes their identity too, is a type of chapati cooked up by using rice wafers called by the name “KORRI ROTI”. Every Bunt’s function is incomplete without this Kori Roti and this Kori Roti is eaten along with Chicken Curry. This Kori Roti consists of coconut milk more and less water, this proportion makes this roti tastier and healthier. Along this Coconut Milk, Red chilli, Turmeric(“Haldi”), Cumin (“Jeera”), Coriander (“Dhaniya”), Fenugreek (“Methi”), Pepper (“Kali Mirch”), less amount of Garlic (“Adrak”) and lemon water also used in it.
In Tulu Language, Kori means Chicken and this roti is also been eaten with Chicken curry.
A similar type of dish Tagreem is cooked in Arabia and Persia, and then it not completely wrong to say that this dish had come along with Muslims in the 7th Century and today it becomes an integral part of Bunt Cuisine.
Other than Bunts, Mogaveera/Mogiyar is another community who are living in Mangalore. They are the child of this land only. Traditionally they are groups of fishermen who lived in nearby areas of Udupi and Mangalore. And the influence of living in coastal region can be easily witnessed in their delicacies. If we notice food of this community, it is quite similar to the food of any normal fisherman’s family.In which fisherman went for fishing in the early morning, who take cooked rice along with him and eat it with freshly caught fish in lunch and in case if he doesn't have any fresh fish then eat it along with dried fish. The family of this fisherman uses the remaining fish of the day after selling all good fishes in dinner.
Basically, Bunt’s Food is quite similar to food of Kohli’s of Mumbai, and if is there any difference, then it is of local spices available or used while cooking.
There is one thing about their delicacies, which is seen less in other cuisines of Mangalore that is the use of dried fish. Earlier, these peoples used to does fishing in the large amount and their respective housewives dry excess/remaining fishes in sunshine so that they can eat them during monsoon season. At that time, dried fish is the food of poor people. But today, it becomes an expensive thing and peoples found it very tasty too.
500 yrs ago from now, there wasn’t any mention of the use of dried fish for making any dish. This technique of eating fish had come along Portuguese and before the independence of India, 2 lakh tons of fish was been exported from India.
Mangalore had a deep relation with Christian religion too as it is that region of India where you witness the influence of Portuguese and Christian Religion for the first time.
Food of Mangalorean Catholics is quite similar to the Food of Portuguese of Goa to a maximum extent. But you could also see the effect of South India on the cooking style of Mangalorean Catholics. Also, cook's of Goa use Sirca for sour taste whereas cooks of Mangalore uses tamarind for the same purpose.
Use of one thing, which generally not seen in the traditional food of Mangalore is the use of Pork. Pork dishes usually attached to the food of Catholic’s. Mahabharat and in the book of 12th Century, Mānasollāsa, we can find the mention of using pork in Indian food too.
Mangalorean Catholics cook one special dish from pork that is “PORK INDAD”, which is quite similar to ‘Goan Vindaloo’, as sugar is added to this dish at the end. One more dish of Mangalore which is found in this region only, that is, “ROSACHI CURRY”. This dish is prepared by frying fish with Coconut, Onion, Ginger, and Cumin. Next special item of the cuisine of Mangalorean Catholic is their salad “CUCUMBER KARAM”. You will always find this salad near Mangalorean Thalli. This salad is prepared by using cucumber, chili, and mustard (‘sarso’).
And with all these dishes, these peoples eat red rice and because of its export in a heavy amount to Muscat, this rice is also called “MUSCATI RICE”. All these dishes were started preparing here after 17th Century when in large amount Catholic’s of Goa was shifted to Mangalore.
One story is attached to these Mangalorean Catholics which shows that how much these peoples value their food. In the year 1784, during the fight with Britishers, Tipu Sultan send many Mangalorean Catholics to prison as captive. One of such catholic was Balthazaar, who doesn’t like prison’s food. So, he himself started preparing a type of sauce (‘chutni’), which remaining prisoners and soldiers were also like to eat. And this sauce was also named after him as “BALTHAZAAR CHUTNI”.
 |
| KRISHNA MUTT |
Main dishes of this cuisine are “RASAM”, “SAMBHAR”, “DOSA”, “KASHI HALWA” (prepared by using Pumpkin) and “GHASSI”(made up from Peas and Coconut). This Udupi Cuisine famous all over the nation because of few reasons and one of them it is very economical or “Value for Money” food. Also, Udupi Cuisine is very good from the digestive point of view too.
Traditionally Dosa is being eaten in its normal/simple form (what we call “SADA DOSA” too) and in place of Sambhar, “ALLO BHAJI” was served. As far as talking about the invention of “MASALA DOSA”, there is one story behind it and that is around 60-70 yrs ago from now, due to damage to the crop’s of Potato, there was a shortage of Potato. And because of this, the batter of Potato’s was then started being filled inside Dosa, so that it’s usage will be minimum. Thus, from here onwards Masala Dosa was started being cooked. Although, people of Mysore believed that Dosa is their invention, not Udupi’s.This assumption might be true also as according to Manasoullas of Someshwar, all that region of Udupi and Mysore comes under Karnataka at that time. Hence it is possible that Dosa was an invention of this region. Although you will find Udupi Dosa is way more different from Mysore Dosa, it is more fermented and simpler than Mysore Dosa.
You will be amazed to know that we can find mention of this dosa in Sangam Literature of 6th Century by the name of “Dosika” or “Dosai”.
 |
| DOSA |
Either this dosa is originated from Udupi or Mysore, after RajniKant, the second most famous thing of South India is Dosa.
Food of Mangalore is not the only heritage of the communities and religions, who live here but also is proof of the influence of fertile field and coastal region.
Along with delicious dishes made up from Coconut and fishes, you will find the best crop of “ARECA NUT”/”SUPAARI” of India here. This Supari was earlier famous as “Pugi Phal”.Since 1st Century, this Supari is being used in Religious Work as it is a complete(Saabut) fruit like coconut. Many few people know this thing that both the items, that is Pan (Betel Leaf) and Pugi Phal (Areca Nut ), both came to India from South East Asia, maybe by floating with the waves of Sea around the Eastern Ghats. But how and when did both of them reached to Southern Area, nobody knows about it precisely. Maybe because of favourable weather of South for plantation of this crop was the reason at that time.
In the Buddhist Literature of 400 B.C., we can find mention of eating Supari. But its crop reached India, way before this time from Indonesia.
At a different time in history, communities who came here and get settled gave a new face to the Food of Mangalore. And today, cuisine which is famous as Mangalorean Cuisine is a combination of Hindu, Muslim and Christian influence.
Thus, Mangalorean Cuisine is the name given to the collection of Beri Muslim’s Cuisine, Bunt Cuisine, Mogaveera’s Cuisine, Mangalorean Catholic’s Cuisine and Udupi Cuisine.
That’s all about Mangalorean Cuisine.
Hope you like this Food Trip to Mangalore.
Comments
Post a Comment