"Gar Firdaus, Ruhe zamin ast, hamin asto, hamin asto, hamin ast" which means “if there is ever a heaven on earth, it's here, it's here, it's here”-Amir Khusrow.
Yes, you guess it right, this article is going to be about Food Stories of the northernmost part of India which is Jammu and Kashmir(J&K). J&K not only has mesmerizing natural scenarios to be praised, it also has very authentic culinary traditions which give birth to a variety of cuisines.
Variation in the cuisine of any respective place symbolizes the influence of changing tradition, culture, and ruling power over that region with changing time. Similarly, Kashmiri food is not only about any single Cuisine it varies with varying Kashmir regions. Kashmiri food had clearly shown the influence of different aspects of cooking methods of various regions of Afghanistan, Persia and Central Asia.
Kashmiri food is predominantly non-vegetarian which definitely not depicts that you won’t get any mouth-watering vegetarian dishes in this region. Kashmiri cuisine has evolved through many generations and emerges out as an attracting blend of 3 different cooking styles widely known as of Kashmiri Pandit’s, Muslim’s and Mughal’s. Cuisines of Kashmiri Pandits is a perfect mixture of non-vegetarian and vegetarian dishes. Yes, despite being Brahmin, Kashmiri Pandits are meat eaters. Their holy day’s Bhog(food which offers to Hindu Deities) consist of non-vegetarian dishes like fish and mutton dishes. Thus Kashmiri Cuisine offers a wide range of authentic non-veg and exquisite veg dishes.
Enticing Features of Kashmiri Cuisine
• Use of garlic and onion is seen less in Kashmiri cuisines. Instead of these two, various other hot spices are being used in Kashmiri Cuisines like Cloves( Laung ), Cinnamon( Daalacheenee ), Cardamom( Elachi/ ilaayachee ), Ginger( Adarak ) and Fennel( Saumph ).
• Saffron( Kesar) is widely used as colouring and seasoning agent in a number of dishes of Kashmiri Cuisines. In fact, Saffron becomes an integral part of Kashmiri Cuisines because of its wide use in the seasoning of many Kashmiri dishes which gives exquisite aromatic flavour to that respective dish. Even Food Critics consider that use of Saffron in Kashmiri Food is the trademark of Kashmiri Cuisines. Fennel is another ingredient which can be used for giving an aromatic flavour to Kashmiri dish.
• Dry fruits are also used extensively in various Kashmiri dishes that too mostly in the making of curries.
• Kashmiri Pulao is one the top rice-dishes not only in Kashmiri Cuisines but all over the nation because of its aromatic flavour which comes due to use of Kashmiri Rice in it.
• Authentically Ghee is used in the cooking of Kashmiri Dishes but changing time and health concerns nowadays chefs started replacing Ghee with mustard oil.
Wazwan
Now, what is Wazwan?
Wazwan is an ultimate ceremonial feast of Kashmir Muslim Tradition. It is a multi-course Kashmiri meal which is also considered as an essential aspect of their essence and culture by Kashmiri Muslims. Traditionally this multi-course meal consists of 36 courses out of which 15 to 30 courses can be meat based. Only, the meat of fish, chicken, and lamb can be used for the preparation of non-veg dishes and dishes that are based on lentils or pulses is regarded as desecration at this feast time.
Different courses of this dish are traditionally prepared by a vasta-waza, or head chef, with the assistance of a court of wazas, or chefs and these wazas were specialized in making of Wazwan which made certain waza families very prominent.They were in great demand specially during the marriage season from May-October.
Before serving of Wazwan, guests are grouped into fours and then meal begins with a ritual of the washing of hands, as a jug and basin called the tash-t-nari offers among the guests. A large sized serving dish known as traem is piled high with heaps of rice, decorated and quartered by 4 seekh kabab, 4 pieces of meth maaz, 2 tabak maaz, sides of barbecued ribs, and 1 safed kokur, 1 zafrani kokur, along with other dishes. This meal is incomplete without yogurt garnished with Kashmiri saffron, salads, Kashmiri pickles, and dips.
Seven compulsory dishes of Wazwan which must be served on such occasions include
Tabakhmaaz or Qabargaah, barbecued lamb ribs prepared with milk, butter, and local spices.
Rista, a spicy gravy preparation of meatballs.
Damiwal Korma, a preparation of lamb roasted with spices, onion puree and yogurt garnished with coriander leaves.
Rogan Josh, one of the signature dishes of Kashmiri cuisine which was originally brought to Kashmir by the Mughals, a lamb gravy full of browned onions, spices, and curry.
Goshtaba, another spicy yogurt gravy containing meatballs
Marchhwangan Korma, a preparation of chicken thigh or leg pieces cooked with a spicy onion sauce thickened milk, cardamom, and fennel-based spice mixture.
Among these 7 mandatory dishes of Wazwan dishes like Rogan Josh, Goshtaba and Tabakhmaaz also come in top 10 dishes of Kashmiri Cuisines. Other dishes include
Yogurt Lamb Curry, a dish which is cooked in mawal flowers, black and green cardamoms, onion paste and dry mint leaves.
Paneer Chaman, best authentic Kashmiri paneer dish for every paneer lover in which cottage cheese with brown and green cardamom is cooked in milk slowly until it becomes tender, rich and brown.
Kashmiri Saag, an easily cooked dish which is best for winter.
Khatte Baingan, a dish rich in pop flavours is all about golden fried aubergines laced in thick and spicy gravy.
Dum Aloo, an easy but mouth as well as stomach satisfying dish in which golden fried potatoes are mixed with yogurt and various aromatic spices which turns out as an amazing red curry.
Kashmiri Mutton Ribs, a dish for which initially mutton is cooked in milk and spice, then wrap them up in gram flour batter and finally fry them.
Haak, a vegetarian dish cooked with mustard oil and various spices within 30 mins.
Nadroo Yakhni, a yogurt based curry which consists lotus stem, cardamom ginger, and bay leaves.
Chicken Pulao, a tasty rice dish made in desi ghee consist of juicy pieces of chicken, whole spices, Kashmiri chillis.
After Wazwan, another most talked about thing of Kashmiri Food is their Beverages which includes Kashmiri Chai and Kahwah.
Kashmiri Chai is also famous by the name of Noon Chai( “Noon” means salt) or Sheer Chai( Called by Kashmiri Pandits ). It is salty in taste and pinkish in colour. This chai is made with black tea, milk, salt and bicarbonate of soda. Morning’s of Kashmiri peoples is incomplete without this Noon Chai and bread like baqerkhani which comes fresh from Qandur (Bakers).
And Kahwah is considered compulsory to serve at a marriage function, festival time and at religious places. It is a green tea made with saffron, spices and almonds/walnuts. It is said that there are 20 varieties of Kahwah like some people like to add milk in Kahwah in equal proportion. Kahwah is known as Maugal Chai by Kashmiri Pandits of the smaller village of Kashmir.
Above mentioned all food is usually well-known food of Kashmiri Valley Region. But other than these traditional Kashmiri dishes, dishes that belong to Leh-Ladakh Region are also very popular all over the nation. Dishes and their cooking style in the Leh-Ladakh Region have a strong resemblance to Tibetan cuisine and their cooking style. Usually, Ladakh peoples love to eat rice, wheat, millet, yak butter and other dairy products along with veggies and fruits. Also, unlike Kashmiri Food, Ladakhis Food is boiled or steamed food which is high in nutritious value and delicious in taste too.
Popular dishes of Leh-Ladakh Regions includes
Momos, a Tibetan delicacy which is served in Kashmir in a blend of the original and local influences. These small, spicy momos can be stuffed with minced meat, vegetables or panner. Serving of momos is considered incomplete until you served it along with spicy sauce (either made up or green chillis or red chillis).
Thukpa, a thick noodle-soup dish which is a popular dish of Leh Region but its origin can be traced to the Eastern part of Tibet.
Herbal Tea, a tea prepared with fresh green leaves, salt, and butter. Since Ladakh is a land of monks and monasteries and serves its visitor with best herbal tea. It is beneficial for once health too.
Skyu, thumb-sized small pieces of wheat flour cooked in sufficient quantity of water after adding required spices.
Khambir, a pan-shaped local bread which has a thick crust made up of local whole wheat. Generally, served with butter tea.
Butter Tea, this is something new for tea lovers and something which one must taste if they ever visit J&K. It is prepared by adding butter and salt to tea. Sometimes a piece of yak meat also according to the individual’s preference.
Paba, very healthy and one of the traditional dishes. It is made using peas and wheat. The dough is made using roasted flours of wheat, barley, buckwheat, peas and Ladakhi black beans.
Thenthuk, another noodle-soup dish of Leh region. It is prepared with wheat flour dough, mixed veggies and some pieces of Yak/Mutton meat which enhances its taste and value. By the way, if you think it will taste same as Thukpa, then you are surely mistaken since in Thenthuk uneven pieces of noodles are mixed with white flour dough which gives completely different taste too. So it will be better if you let your tongue feel the difference between these two noodle-soup based dish.
This is all about “Food of Jammu and Kashmiri”. See you soon with my next Food Story, till then have a good time, guys.